Located in the heart of the city, the now-demolished Nazarbaug Palace once stood proudly across Mandvi, built by Maharaja Malharrao Gaekwad in 1871. Considered the oldest palace in Baroda, it later served as a treasury and remained a favored venue for grand royal functions. The palace grounds also housed the enchanting Shish Mahal, a palace of glass.
A Splendid Structure
Surrounded by lush gardens, Nazarbaug Palace was celebrated for its pristine beauty. Local residents often uttered the phrase “Nazar na lage” (may God protect it from evil) to shield it from envious eyes. This phrase eventually gave the palace its name, with “baug” referring to the beautiful gardens enveloping it.
Designed in the Italian-Renaissance style, the palace was a majestic four-storey structure, complete with a basement, gazebo, and a bridge that connected it to Sarkarwada. Elevated on a high platform, the palace commanded attention with small flights of steps leading to its grand entrance. The successive storeys of the building tapered elegantly, adorned with verandas and balconies on every floor.
Each level of the palace featured intricately decorated architraves showcasing exquisite stucco work. The walls were symmetrically divided using pilasters and string courses, embellished with arched window openings that added to its grandeur. Classical architectural elements, such as massive fluted Corinthian columns, arcaded verandas, pedimented windows, balustraded parapets, and rows of blind arches, adorned every surface. The uppermost storey was crowned with brightly painted and gilded pediments, further enhancing the monumental edifice’s splendor.
Treasured Possessions
The treasury housed within Nazarbaug Palace contained the most prized possessions of the Gaekwads. By 1927, the collection of jewelry was estimated to be worth an astounding $10,000,000, featuring stunning pieces such as a diamond necklace that included the Star of the South (weighing around 125 carats) and the English Dresden (a drop-shaped diamond of about 78.5 carats). Among the collection was the legendary “pearl carpet of Baroda,” a masterpiece made from fine silk and deer hide, set with 2,500 diamonds and approximately 1.5 million pearls, originally commissioned by Maharaja Khanderao Gaekwad as an offering to the Prophet’s tomb in Medina.
The palace also displayed solid gold and silver guns, each weighing over 100 kilograms, along with works from old masters like Raphael, Titian, and Murillo. The collection encompassed Indian paintings, Graeco-Roman exhibits, and Chinese and Japanese art. So valuable were these items that many were tragically stolen from within the palace.
A Disheartening Transformation
Today, a quick search on the web for Nazarbaug Palace will likely yield a computer-generated image of a modern mall bearing the same name. The white palace that once graced the grounds has long since been demolished, replaced by a shopping complex that claims to “revive the glory of Nazarbaug” with a vintage façade and modern amenities.
Despite its name, meant to ward off evil, the palace met its final days stripped of its former grandeur and opulence. In its twilight years, it slowly crumbled into ruins until its eventual demolition, with little resistance from the same people who once fervently wished for its protection.
Instead of demolishing, there should be proper conservation done of such structures! Bringing down the whole structure is a shame for the city!