The Haribhakti Haveli, located in narrow lanes of Ghadiyali Pol near Amba Mata no Khancho was once a grand symbol of the city’s opulent past, a place where business, culture, and tradition seamlessly intertwined. Built by the influential Haribhakti family, this traditional mansion served as both a home and a thriving business hub. However, in recent years, the haveli has undergone significant changes. Sold to a clothing brand, the building no longer retains the same charm it once held. Despite this, the haveli’s legacy remains an integral part of Vadodara’s rich architectural and cultural history.
A Unique Blend of Functionality and Beauty
Designed to reflect the Haribhakti family’s prominence in the money-lending trade, the haveli’s architecture seamlessly blended form and function. The two-story structure is a labyrinth of rooms, narrow staircases, and secret passages, all designed to protect the family’s wealth and facilitate their business dealings. At the heart of the haveli was the central courtyard, known as the Chowk, which served as a multifunctional space. This chowk housed the sacred Tulsi Kyara (a raised bed for the holy Tulsi plant), which was cared for and worshipped daily. A large brass pot in the center could hold up to 200 liters of water, essential for daily rituals and household activities. The courtyard was not only a religious space but also a place for social gatherings, music, and festivals, where the family and guests would come together to celebrate.
Cultural Significance and Religious Connections
The haveli’s connection to spirituality was further emphasized by its temple dedicated to Lord Dwarkadhish. This sacred space was an integral part of the family’s daily life, where prayers and religious gatherings would take place. During festivals like Diwali, the haveli would come alive with celebrations, and the head of the Gaekwad family would visit, marking the occasion with great fanfare. This connection to both spiritual and social life cemented the haveli’s place in Vadodara’s cultural fabric, serving as a symbol of the family’s status and their close ties with the local rulers.
Exquisite Craftsmanship and Design Elements
The Haribhakti Haveli was a masterpiece of 19th-century craftsmanship. Built predominantly from wood, the haveli’s design was typical of the era, with intricate details that showcased the skill of local artisans. The wooden structure was planned around the central Chowk, which was encircled by a veranda. The veranda allowed access to several rooms, with doors and windows opening into this communal space. The most striking feature of the courtyard was the beautifully carved wooden posts that supported the upper floors of the building. These posts were mounted on stone bases and painted in contrasting shades of ivory and crimson. Small wooden brackets at the top of these posts supported ornate wooden beams, frieze, and cornices, which cleverly concealed the wooden joist flooring system behind them.
Most of the upper-floor windows were full-height, as was typical in the houses of the time. These windows had two sets of doors: one set with iron grills to allow air and light to pass through, while providing security, and another set of solid wooden panels for privacy. The passageways between the wooden posts were often decorated with wooden panels carved in the shape of cusped arches, adding an element of decorative elegance to the architecture.
Vastu Shastra Principles in Architectural Design
The architectural layout of the haveli was designed with great care, following the principles of Vastu Shastra. Every room, window, and passage was aligned to optimize ventilation, balance, and harmony. The wooden posts and beams were arranged not only to support the structure but also to create an aesthetic flow that blended practicality with beauty. The placement of the Tulsi Kyara and other elements within the Chowk was also in accordance with Vastu principles, reinforcing the haveli’s connection to the spiritual and natural world.
A Legacy of Hospitality and Social Engagement
Beyond its architectural beauty, the Haribhakti Haveli was a place of hospitality and social engagement. The family prepared meals for more than 100 people daily in the specially designed vegetable room. This communal aspect was important to the family’s way of life and reflected their commitment to sharing their prosperity with others. The central courtyard was not only used for religious and cultural events but also as a space for business transactions, with the family hosting guests and visitors regularly.
Mashals: The Symbol of Illumination and Welcome
One of the defining features of the Haribhakti Haveli was its mashals—large torches that lined the outer walls, illuminating the building and its surroundings. These mashals were not merely functional; they also symbolized warmth, hospitality, and the grandeur of the haveli. The flickering flames of the mashals served to welcome visitors and light up the courtyard during festivals and social events. The presence of these torches added a touch of mystique and magnificence to the haveli, enhancing the atmosphere during evening gatherings.
A New Chapter: From Heritage to Retail
In recent years, the Haribhakti Haveli has lost much of its former glory. The building was sold to a clothing brand, and the transformation into a commercial space has dramatically altered its appearance. Retail displays have replaced the intricate frescoes, and modern design elements now dominate the space. While the new purpose of the haveli may bring economic benefits, it is a bittersweet reminder of the challenges that many heritage buildings face in today’s world. The loss of original features, such as the mashals, carved wooden posts, and frescoes, is a stark contrast to the haveli’s past.
Preserving the Past: The Ongoing Challenge
The transformation of the Haribhakti Haveli underscores the ongoing challenge of preserving heritage buildings in an era of rapid modernization. As urbanization and commercialization continue to reshape cities like Vadodara, many heritage structures are being repurposed or neglected. The loss of such architectural landmarks is a reminder of the importance of preserving the cultural and historical fabric of cities. While the current form of the haveli may no longer reflect its original grandeur, it remains an important part of Vadodara’s architectural heritage, and efforts to restore or repurpose such buildings must be prioritized.
This post was written in collaboration with Krutarth Bhatt.
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